Rick’s – a Cape Town classic

Rick’s Café Américain; the place where everybody meets

“There's no hurry. Tonight he'll be at Rick's. Everybody comes to Rick's." So said Captain Louis Renault, in arguably the most famous movie of the 20th century, Casablanca.

Rick’s Café Américain in Gardens, Cape Town has become something of a classic itself. Housed in a 100-year-old converted Victorian, the restaurant has been open for six years, and as owner Per Menkö says: “It’s a place for everybody.”

Per, originally from Bavaria has been in Cape Town for 21 years. A chef himself, he designed the menu, but prefers to stay out of the kitchen and rather plays host with the most instead—how very Rick Blaine of him.

Per has worked as a chef all over the world, he even had a stint at the Mount Nelson Hotel, and was the executive chef at the Victoria & Alfred Hotel for seven years.  “In 1999, we opened up Kennedy’s Cigar Bar & Restaurant,” Per explains. “Then I consulted for the Mantis Collection and for the Melrose Arch Hotel in Joburg. In July 2005 we found this building," he says gesturing. "It had a pizzeria inside—it was pretty dreadful.”

Go-getter that he is, Per soon turned the building into the vibrant restaurant it is today. The downstairs area has three fireplaces, making it a very cosy place to be. Modelled on the Rick’s from Casablanca, the interior is rich and warm. Moroccan design elements abound; mosaics, tagines, stained glass, and dark wood. And of course, there are movie posters of Casablanca on the walls.

“The script for Casablanca was voted the best of the 20th century,” says Per. “It’s got it all; love, drama, revenge...there’s lots of drama here,” he says with a laugh.

Poring over the menu, I see that there really is something for everyone; from Moroccan and North African inspired tapas to burgers and grills. There are also tagines with fragrant lamb, tender chicken and Spanish-style seafood. I order the latter, while my partner chooses Moroccan kebabs—skewers with grilled chicken and lamb kofta served with a mint yoghurt.

"Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world she walks into mine."

Larger than it looks, this rambling establishment has a warren of rooms filled with cosy tables. “It’s very homey,” intones Per, “wherever you sit you’ll have a corner to yourself.”

Upstairs there’s a chill-out area with deep couches, perfect for cocktails and tapas, and this leads onto the back terrace—one of Cape Town’s best kept secrets.

The large deck has a view of Table Mountain and a rough-hewn wood bar with a Jack Black beer tap.

“I have over 36 different beers,” says Per. “It’s a beer garden in the middle of town,” he emphasises. The range of beers is phenomenal; here you’ll find craft brews galore; &Union, Camelthorn, Paulaner, Jack Black and more. “We have a very vibey place; people return again and again.

We head back down the wooden stairs and take a seat at the bar with the fire to our backs.  I could very easily wile away the afternoon here. Our food arrives, mine in a tagine; authentic spices with mussels, prawns and linefish, steeped in a rich tomato-y stew.

People keep streaming through the door, and Per is always there to greet them. Many seem to know him well too. This is one hands-on owner.

He’s completely charming; at the moment he’s fretting about his 20-year-old blind cat, Ella Fitzgerald, he’s just come back from the vet with her. He’s got another two at home: Madonna and Marilyn Monroe. (He sure loves those movies.)

Rick’s Café Américain is a lot of things; it’s a vibrant restaurant, a beer garden, a local hangout, a busy bar, and most clearly; the fruition of a dream for owner Per.

Here’s looking at you kid.

By Malu Lambert

Happy Hour runs from 5pm – 7pm Monday to Saturday. Look out for the winter specials; including discounts on Glüehhwein, SAB beers, tequila and cocktails. Also on special are daily lunches, starting at R45.

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