Two Oceans Restaurant at Cape Point

Of pirate coves, and wild beaches; and of gastronomic experiences

We’re on the Flying Dutchman funicular, which I insist on pronouncing ‘fun-cular’, because well, it is such fun. Much like a tram, it transports you close to the lighthouse, allowing you to skip a pesky few hundred steps. The Flying Dutchman is named after an alleged phantom ship that is said to be doomed to sail along the Cape of Good Hope for eternity.

As we move up the tracks the coast unfurls beneath us; jagged edges of the peninsula, pure white beaches, and blue ocean as far as the eye can see. At the very top is the iconic lighthouse, it has a directional signpost that whimsically points across the globe. Helpful kilometres have been added, Rio de Janeiro a mere six thousand away.

Land ahoy

As spectacular as this view is; there’s so much more to explore on the sprawling precipice. With this in mind we walk along the cliff path, and stop at the various viewpoints. And what a view. Black cormorants wheel through the air, in and out of caves, the sea boils white at the shoreline, and it’s all very fantasy pirate novel.

We ponder what it must have been like for those early explorers seeing this treacherous coast for the first time. The evidence of the unlucky ones can be seen on the Thomas. T. Tucker trail, one of the many hikes worth trying out in this national park. Cape Point is uniquely situated between two shores; and the scenery is wild, diverse, and never-ending.

Two Oceans Restaurant

Britsh-born chef, Phil Alcock is a man on a mission.  Having worked with the likes of superstar chef, Raymond Blanc in London, he’s here to shake things up.

He’s lived in Cape Town for the last ten years, and been at his latest post for just four months.

“When I first arrived here I knew it was my home,” he says looking out across the bay. “There’s nothing quite like Cape Town.” And Cape Point is undoubtedly its hottest tourist destination. This poses an interesting challenge. Most restaurants are able to build up a core clientele of regulars.  At Two Oceans Restaurant almost all diners are tourists: “It’s my aim,” adds Phil to make sure that they have an experience that leaves them dreaming of coming back again, or at least sharing their great experience with others.

“But, I am beginning to attract a group of locals. A lot of people with Wild Cards, or My Green Card, enter the reserve just to eat here.”

In his short time he’s already introduced a new menu. “It’s been the same for the last five years. It was very mixed, with lots of influences. And a restaurant with a view like this,” he says gesturing at the endless ocean, “needs to have its own identity.”

This means that Phil has had to do intensive training with the staff to get his menu off the ground so quickly. The focus is on seafood, and there’s a foundation of French classical cooking given its own personality with South African flavours.

I ask him what his current favourite dishes are: “Ooh,” he says “that’s hard. But I do love the braised kudu, and the Provençal-style kingklip with saffron potatoes.”

And then there was crayfish

Taking our seats on the outside deck, the bay dropping off below us. The scene is dazzling.  For lunch we dine on ginger prawns, and a deconstructed cold seafood salad. On the latter’s plate, artfully arranged, are poached prawns and crayfish served with a tian of tuna tartare, and mango mayonnaise.

Phil also has plans to revamp the look of the restaurant. Now quite African-inspired, he tells me that the new look will have cool blues and creams to bring across a more Mediterranean feel.

“It’s a beautiful restaurant,” he says. “And now it has beautiful food too.”

By Malu Lambert

Conservation fees:

Cape of Good Hope entry
Children R30; Adults R85

Flying Dutchman Funicular
Childen return, R20; Adult return, R47        

*Wild Card and My Green Card holders pay no conservation fee.  

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