Vintage dining experience at Brio

Opulent Brio restaurant in Adderley Street brings you back to 1893

Please note: this establishment has been closed.

Usually it takes some time for a place to gain character – Brio got it all(ready). Opened in the midst of the 2010 World Cup, Brio had a quiet beginning – and now it’s time to unveil this secret gem in the centre of Cape Town.

"A setting of unrivalled opulence and class, Brio has restored the century-old ABC Building (in the former Riboville), where the city bank once held its gold, and introduced a whole new style of wealth and exclusivity. From the breathtaking original chandeliers that light up the restaurant’s vaulted ceilings, to the dark, lacquered wooden floors, to the decadent tastes on the menu, Brio has ushered in the return of true vintage glamour, timeless style, and the impossibly moving beauty of history," I read before visiting Brio. So right.

History, yes. For me, a European girl, this is it. Ancient, divine architecture and class. Here I get the feeling of home. Lauren Maas and Eyal Shaked (also known as Skippy from Dizzy’s Jazz Café fame) are the owners, who fit perfectly into the Brio dream. A dream, where vintage comes true. A dream, where a tall man in a black suit opens the door for you. A dream, where there is a fireplace and couches in a classy smoking room (the old bank manager‘s office). A dream, where you listen to beautiful swing and jazz. This is Lauren and Skippy’s dream. It’s a movie setting, the owners visit us at our table and recommend their favourites dishes. We watch them having fun, especially Skippy, who we can imagine to be quite the full time musician. He spends a large part of the evening with the band on stage and sings like a big star (he’s pretty good I have to admit).

A return to classic gastronomy

The menu is a return to classic gastronomy with a range of firm favourites and classic dishes that cater to both the eye and the appetite. I have deep fried Camembert with figs, rocket and nuts for starters (R62), but also get to taste the Springbok Carpaccio (R88). Other options are Roquefort Snails (R59), Oysters (R15), Grilled Calamari (R49) or soup.

Even though the menu is concise, it‘s still not easy to choose between all of the classic delicacies. Skippy recommends the Grilled Calamari (well, he’s a vegetarian). My friends order the Carpetbagger Steak (R106), which is a steak filled with mussels - and the winner of the evening, the Peppered Fillet (R130), tender and absolutely delicious.

You can also choose from the Brio Burger (R79), Seafood Platter (R420), Oxtail (R104), Steamed Mussels (R116), Linefish (R118) and the Crayfish Thermidor (R249). On the side we have communal bowl of suitably traditional Creamed Spinach (R25), Lauren’s favourite.

The portions are good, spicy and hearty. We pair our meal with a Neil Ellis Shiraz, one of the exclusive wines on the Brio wine menu. Here, the wines are not inexpensive; most of them lie over the R200 mark. Yet you can expect to delight in some of the best loved South African wines available.

For dessert, I decide on the Crème Brulee (R39), while my friends go for the very rich Lindt Chocolate Soufflé (R45). Even the man at our table is blown away by the decadent warm chocolate... and that says a lot.

We spend a full night out at the Brio, watching Lauren (and the rest of the band) giggling while Skippy sings on stage, watching people smoke cigarettes and cigars – in the smoking room. For once it looks good again to have a fag in your hand, fireplace in the background, antique couches, and crystal ashtrays. It creates some mystery as the smoke swirls in the dim light...

Brio has character with its warm atmosphere, interior and style. For dinner at Brio, you can dress up, but you will also feel right at home in a casual outfit. It’s a place for lovers of life, a place to enjoy and take things easy; a place to eavesdrop on the lovely tunes playing in the background and be entertained by how much the owners enjoy what they set up – a dream – all the way from 1893.

By Antonia Heil

Brio 1893
ABC Building | 130 Adderley Street | City Centre | Cape Town | +27 (0)21 422 0654

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 7pm - 10pm for dinner

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