Haute Cabrière Restaurant

Cutting edge food on the crest of Franschhoek

Above the town of Franschhoek, perched on Pass Road, is Haute Cabrière, a wine estate that has a playful yet powerful approach to wine. The restaurant, of the same name, also subscribes to this fun-loving, with punch mentality.

“We’re always trying to grow,” says Ryan Shell, executive chef. “To change, but not just for the sake of it.” He explains that they don’t do seasonal menus (as in winter and summer), but instead add things to the menu in line with the arrival of both inspiration and produce.

And he likes to keep it local. Now, this isn’t just restaurant lip-service, for Ryan it’s a reality. “Luckily, I’m quite good friends with Chris Erasmus from La Motte (also in Franschhoek), and I buy 95 percent of my vegetables from his organic garden.” He says he sources the rest of his menu from within the Cape region (with the odd exception).

The perfect marriage of food and wine

It’s a bit chilly today, so we’re seated inside by a vaulted window. On sunnier days the terrace is the place to be, with its sweeping views of the Franschhoek valley. No matter though, a lovely vista and a wealth of light stream through the gothic window; bouncing off chandeliers and immaculate white linen.

It’s an impressive space. On the walls are Achim von Armin’s (cellar master and founder) bright and arresting paintings. The soaring arches of the ceiling and the pinot noir barrel cellar, through the far glass wall, complete the effect.

We start with individually paired oysters: one with apple and ginger sorbet, one lightly poached with hollandaise, and one with the classic red wine vinegar with shallots.

Ryan brings us a gift from the kitchen: pink and perfect salmon mousse resting on a white tile (cue jokes around the table about having to replace kitchen tiles). We move onto butter-soft chicken liver parfait paired with Pierre Jourdan Ratafia; chardonnay fortified with the estate’s brandy (unctuous and golden). For mains we dine on line fish braised in sticky orange sauce and glazed salmon with bok choi.

The restaurant’s menu, like the estate, is a touch whimsical. A statement which is perfectly illustrated by our dessert of Camembert and caramel milkshake served with a doughnut and a buchu marshmallow.

Pork belly and pure pinot

Ryan sits down opposite us as lunch is cleared away. Trim and wiry with short black hair, he looks younger than his 30 years; although, his industry experience could allow him to pass forquite a lot older. Originally (or unfortunately as he says) from Johannesburg, he’s worked with influential names in the business such as, Rudi Liebenberg, Mike Basset, and Margot Janse. The latter he spent almost five years under. “What didn’t I take from that experience!” He exclaims when asked about his time at Le Quartier Français. “Margot has this amazing ability to stay on the cusp of everything, and she knows instinctively what makes a good restaurant.”

Ryan says there’s a lot to look forward to: from his latest favourite dish: “chilli pork belly with red pepper and cashew mash served with milk poached onions…” to the pure pinot noir menu, which pairs each of the estate’s pinot wines or blends with a dish on a tasting menu.

Sign me up.

By Malu Lambert